Exploring the Treasure Chest

Exploring the Treasure Chest

There is so much to see of historical value around Kurunegala that the visitor is spoilt for choice. It is an archaeological treasure chest with four excavated sites, three of which used to be royal capitals. Extensive in area, they are all set within the beautiful North-Western Province of Wayamba. The only downside is that they are over 20km from Kurunegala, so it is best to use your own transport.

ARANKELE

Source: http://blog.srilanka-villa.com

To the north of Kurunegala, at a distance of 24km, are the sixth century remains of a forest monastery and caves. It was inhabited by the Tapovana or forest-dwelling sect of austere Buddhist hermits, and the remains include a large tantaghara or hot water-bath (now festooned with lotus flowers), long concrete, meditating promenades through a wooded area, and a complete hospital. This hospital is unique as it contains a herb grinder and a large granite herbal bath at the center, carved out of stone with depressions still visible where the monks would have sat! Most of it is very well preserved. Arankele was where many saintly monks lived and meditated, the most well-known of which was the Maliyadeva sect, to whom it was handed. Before this, however, it is said that a king resided here and that the long concrete ambulatories would have once stretched to Sigiriya. Monks reside here even now in a contemplative solitary life reminiscent of the past. At least five caves up the forested hillside have been discovered where the original hermit monks lived. It is a hard climb, though the remains of a meditation hall and monks' cells make it well worthwhile. You will need a guide - hard to find, unfortunately I thought I learnt a lot about the area from the caretaker of the grounds, Sunil Rathna.

RIDIGAMA VIHARA 

Source: http://www.ceylonlanka.info

During the reign of Dutugemunu in the second century BC, silver ore was discovered at Ridigama, which means “silver village.” Though this discovery was made many years ago, artefacts found within the Buddhist vihare (temple) and cave hermitage site - such as Buddha

statues, Kandyan wall paintings and an altar given as a present from a Dutch consul - date from the comparatively recent 18th century. The most notable feature here is an exquisite medieval doorway with intricate carvings using ivory as an inlay. The site is pleasantly situated by a lake 18km north-east of Kurunegala.

PANDUWASNUWARA 

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Situated 27km northwest of Kurunegala, off the Chilaw road, Panduwasnuwara is the oldest royal capital in the district. It was made regal in the fifth century BC under Sri Lanka’s second king, Pandukabhaya, successor to Vijaya, the founder of the nation. Though most of the extensive 20 hectare archaeological remains date from the 12th century AD, a forested mound has been identified as Vijaya’s tomb, pointing to the authenticity of Panduwasnuwara’s history. 

Surrounding the once-regal palace complex, which was also briefly used by Parakramabahu (1153-1186) before he moved to Polonnaruwa, are the remains of an ancient fortified wall and moat. Within are the ruins of a palace, a monastic complex, bathing pools and an audience hall. There is also a restored temple of the tooth within the grounds and a small museum near the entrance that exhibits objects found on site, such as coins, pottery and jewellery. 

YAPAHUWA

Despite being 46km north of Kurunegala, and almost half-way to Anuradhapura, Yapahuwa is the one site not to be missed.

As magnificent as Sigiriya, it is a massive 100m high rock that soars dramatically above the surrounding area. Yapahuwa was the seat of Bhuvanekabahu I (1272 - 84), the younger son of Parakramabahu II, who moved the royal capital from Dambadeniya to the stronger base at Yapahuwa. Its main feature is the beautiful ornamental stairway that climbs to a natural terrace where the tooth and alms bowl relic were once kept. There are three flights of very steep stairs* of which the last is flanked by stone carvings of lions in a remarkable condition leading to an ancient stone doorway. Passing through you will see the ruins of the building used to house the tooth, and looking back you can appreciate a stunning view over the palms.

Source: http://www.bloominglankatours.com/cultural-heritage/79-yapahuwa

At the base of this massive rock is a shaded circular path that takes you past stone walls, moats and ramparts. The setting is beautiful and there are many colourful birds and butterflies to be sejen as you stroll around. Unfortunately, Yapahuwa was only a royal capital for a short time since it was abandoned after the invading Pandyans of southern India seized the sacred tooth relic soon after Bhuvanekabahu’s death in 1284. It is said that Parakramabahu Ilf, his successor, went in 1288 to the Pandyan court in India to successfully negotiate for the return of the tooth. It was brought eventually to Polonnaruwa after a brief stint in Kurunegala. There is a museum near the J entrance housing many relics j discovered at the site. There are statues, and some china and Chinese coins that suggest j there were diplomatic relations i with China at the time. The most important relics have been ffl removed to the Colombo Museum, though there is an exquisite granite window intricately carved with dancers and animals that protected the tooth 9 relics.

PADENIYA

On your way back from Yapahuwa, it is worth stopping at the small Padeniya temple that is special due to its 28 carved wooden pillars and doorway reminiscent of the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy. It also has a library housed in an ancient clay building. Apart from learning all about a fascinating slice of Sri Lankan history by visiting these sites, the best thing of all is that they are so tranquil. Moreover, with fewer people, you can enjoy them in your own time! *